Rediscovering the Fall Flavors: A Journey Through Finland’s Forests and Cuisine

This blog post is part of my article series published in The Finnish American Reporter newspaper.

Fall in Finland is a sight to behold. The colors of the trees and bushes transform into a vibrant canvas of reds, oranges, yellows, and browns, creating a spectacle known as "ruska." This natural phenomenon, when trees begin to withdraw chlorophyll from their leaves and prepare for winter, leading to the vibrant display of colors—reds, oranges, and yellows—that characterize the autumn landscape in Finland and other northern regions. 

The ruska paints the landscape with such intensity that it feels like nature itself is celebrating the changing seasons. The crisp air and the rich palette of colors draw people outdoors, inviting them to reconnect with the land in a way that few other places can offer.

One of the most cherished activities during this time of year is mushroom hunting. Many go even “mushroom-crazy”! (real word! sienihullu!) The tradition of venturing into the woods to gather mushrooms is more than just a way to find food—it's a deep-seated ritual that connects people to the land, to their heritage, and to each other. The idea of foraging for food, of finding a meal in the wild, resonates with a certain primal satisfaction. After all, who would say no to a free meal, especially one that is as delicious and rewarding as wild mushrooms?

It’s surprising to me that mushroom hunting trips to Finland aren't a popular tourist attraction, considering how dependable the experience can be. Unlike the elusive Northern Lights, which depend on the sun’s charged particles and are often at the mercy of the clouds, mushrooms are quite reliably found in the forests every fall. The woods are filled with treasures waiting to be discovered, and there's something immensely gratifying about bringing home a basket full of these forest delicacies.

My own experience on how special Finland’s forests are, began in one autumn, maybe 15 years ago, when I had just returned from my annual mushroom hunting trip. At the time, I didn’t have a car or even a driver’s license, so I took the bus out to Nuuksio National Park in Espoo. Nuuksio is a vast expanse of forest that is beautiful year-round, but in the fall, it becomes truly magical. The forest floor is carpeted with mushrooms, bilberries, and lingonberries, depending on the season. However, the area is so large that you need to know where to look; mushrooms don’t just appear everywhere. And, you are not onlyone visiting there, so there is a high chance someone else might find your secret mushroom spot before you!

My favorite mushroom to hunt for is the *suppilovahvero*—known in English as the yellowfoot or winter chanterelle (*Craterellus tubaeformis*). These mushrooms are particularly rewarding to find because they often grow in large groups. Once you spot one, you’re likely to find dozens more nearby. Their muted brown caps make them blend into the forest floor, especially when the yellow leaves start to fall, but their flavor is well worth the effort. Yellowfoot mushrooms are perfect for making a rich, savory sauce that pairs wonderfully with boiled potatoes or, my personal favorite, in a hearty pie. In Finland, pies can be either open or filled, and a mushroom pie made with fresh yellowfoot is a real treat.

One of the few downsides to mushroom hunting is the amount of work involved in cleaning the mushrooms, especially if you got lucky and found many bags of mushrooms!  In Finland, the traditional method to preserve mushrooms is to brush the mushrooms clean, chop them up, and fry them in a dry pan until the liquid evaporates—no oil or butter needed. This technique reduces their size and makes them easier to store in the freezer. 

Another popular method is drying the mushrooms, though this can be tricky without the right equipment. The ideal drying temperature is between 95 and 105°F; anything higher, and the mushrooms will start to cook and harden. Some resourceful people use the excess heat on top of the fridge or a fireplace to dry their mushrooms. A more traditional method is to preserve them in salt, which, while effective, isn’t suitable for all diets. Salted mushrooms are excellent in mushroom salad, a staple in many Finnish households.

But back to that memorable autumn day on the Helsinki tram. I was standing there, tired from my trip, dressed in my Nokia rubber boots and forest gear, and carrying a basket brimming with yellowfoots. 

An Italian lady sitting nearby looked at me with wide eyes and asked, "Where did you get all those mushrooms?" When I told her I had picked them for free in the forest, she was astonished. She couldn’t believe that in Finland, anyone can go out and gather mushrooms without needing permission or paying for them. I explained to her the concept of "everyman's right," a principle that allows people to roam freely in nature and collect what it has to offer, whether it be mushrooms, berries, or flowers. This idea is so ingrained in Finnish culture that we often take it for granted, but for someone from another country, it can be a revelation.

Everyman's right is a beautiful concept that reflects the deep connection Finns have with nature. It’s a privilege that comes with a responsibility to respect the land and its resources, ensuring that these traditions can be passed down to future generations.

This connection to nature and tradition is something we all can relate to. Food directly from the nature, especially, is a powerful link to the past. I encourage you to think back to your childhood and the foods you grew up with. Was there a particular dish that your Finnish relatives used to make? Perhaps a hearty mushroom pie, like the one my mother used to bake? Or maybe it was something else entirely—a soup, a stew, or a dessert that brought the flavors of Finland to your table.

 

Mushroom Pie Recipe

Here’s my mother’s delicious recipe for a mushroom pie that you can try at home. Whether you use fresh mushrooms from the forest, like yellowfoot (feet?) or chanterelles, or store-bought ones, this pie is a delicious way to bring a taste of Finland into your kitchen. This crust is also super easy to make and the potato makes it very delicious.

Mushroom sauce:

• 3 tbsp butter
• 2 cups fresh or frozen mushrooms, chopped (yellowfoot or chanterelles preferred)
• ½ onion, finely chopped
• 1 1/2 tablespoons flour
• 1 cup of water
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon white pepper, ground
• a splash of cream (optional)

Sauté the mushrooms and onions in butter, until soft. Add flour, fry it for a few minutes water gradually, while mixing, add cream and seasoning.

Crust:

• A bit less than 1/2 cup butter (100 g)
• 1/4 cup instant mashed potatoes (the just-add-water-type of mix)
• 1 cup all-purpose wheat flour (+ 1/4 cup later )
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 cup water
• 1/2 egg for brushing

Mix potato mash powder, flour, baking powder, and salt. Add water, then incorporate the final ¼ cup of flour and mix by hand. Flour the surface, roll the dough into thin rectangle, and spread the filling. Use parchment paper to lift and fold the edges to the center, sealing the ends. Turn the pie over with the paper, prick the crust with a fork, and brush with beaten egg. Bake at 400°F for 20-25 minutes.

Whether you're enjoying the fall colors of Finland from afar or exploring the local forests, the flavors of Finnish cuisine can bring you closer to home and your memories. Share your favorite childhood recipes and memories with your family and friends, and let’s keep the tradition alive!